一、提供一个合适的生存环境
1. 决定你购买的种类
猪笼草分为两类：高地与低地。两类根据自然栖息环境的海拔而划分，所以他们需要一些不同的养护方法。还有一类（中地），可以在高地和低地的环境下存活。这几类都有自己所需要的温度与光照。
例：
l 低地种类：N. ampullaria,N. alata, N. eymae (infundibuliformis, eymai), N.khasiana, N. mirabilis, N.ventricosa, N. bicalcarata, N. gracilis and N. maxima。
l 高地种类：N. ventricosa, N. burbidgeae, N. lowii, N. rajah and N. villosa。
l 中地种类：N. Sanguinea。

2. 提供合适的温度
低地种类更喜欢夜间温度超过20摄氏度、白天温度在29~35摄氏度之间。它们对低温更敏感。高地种类则需要一个更凉爽的温度。夜间温度在7~18摄氏度、白天温度在18~29度更适合它们。它们对高温则更为敏感。
l 大多数种类可以在白天温度18~27摄氏度时生长。
l 通常来说，大多数种类可以在12~35摄氏度存活。

4. 提供一个至少有60%湿度的环境
猪笼草来自热带气候，所以湿度对它们很关键。通常来说，他们喜欢60%以上的湿度。有些可以忍受更低的湿度，但低湿度可能会使它们不结笼。低地种类更喜欢比较稳定的湿度。高地种类则在白天可以忍受低湿度，只要在夜晚能得到较高的湿度。如果你生活的地方拥有温暖潮湿的气候，你可以将你的花花扔在外面。但要记得当气温降至10摄氏度以下时把他们领回来。
l 许多人使用加湿器，如果使用的话确保通风。
l 花房和玻璃箱也是不错的选择。

5. 将它们种植在多孔，低肥力的介质中
因为它们的进化使然，猪笼草更喜欢几乎没有营养物质的土中。这意味着种植时应该用很少或不含矿物质的介质。它们需要通风与排水的介质。大多数猪笼草种植者喜欢使用自己搭配的介质（几种不同的混合）。最常用的就是椰壳、干泥炭藓、珍珠岩（或者浮岩pumice），泥炭藓与石英砂。
其他可以混合的介质：木炭、火山岩、兰花树皮？（orchid bark），松木块和石灰岩。

二、浇水、喂食与移植
1. 每隔几天用纯净水浇
具体浇的量依据实际情况而定（介质种类，湿度等）。不过总则是确保你的植物一直处于湿润的介质中。永远不要让你的介质完全干透，如果顶部介质开始干掉，这表明你该浇水了。正如所需的介质一样，猪笼草喜欢含元素少或没有的水。
l 它们可以忍受低浓度的矿物质，不过雨水、蒸馏水及纯净水是最棒的选择。它们都不喜欢盐类。
l 自来水如果低于250ppm则可以使用。
l 通常来说，低地种类相较于高地需要更多的水分。

2. 足够的排水
猪笼草在此处强烈建议不能腰水（会烂根）。避免这个的关键就是有足够的排水。选择多孔、排水良好的介质以便于空气可以到达根部。蕨类纤维、杉树皮、长纤维水苔、泥炭藓和珍珠岩都是很好的选择。用其中的几种混合会有很棒的效果。
l 浇水后，确保排水畅通。
l 如果介质开始腐败，或你注意到你的植物失水非常快，介质可能排水过量。解决方法是重新种植。

3. 避免喂食，除非接触不到昆虫
食虫植物，例如猪笼草以昆虫作为食物。通常你永远不需要喂养你的猪。大多数房屋内都有昆虫，植物也通过长时间的适应需要很少的营养生存。一颗成年植株每月只需要2~3个昆虫生存。
l 如果你选择喂养你的植物，最好用刚挂掉的昆虫。确保昆虫的尺寸能够匹配你的笼子。
l 永远不要投喂肉类。

4. 每年给你的猪更换一次新鲜的介质
大约一年后，大多数介质开始腐败。猪笼草每年最好更换一次介质，如果需要的话可以同时更换大盆。更换介质能帮助提高土壤透气性。你可以在一年中任何时间安全地栽种你的植物。记得每次重新栽种后都要浇水。

三、常见问题
1. 如果看见叶片变黄请减少光照
黄叶、红斑说明植物晒了太多太阳。如果你看见你的植物出现红和黄色，检查一下朝向太阳的叶子。在减少日照后，你通常会看到正常颜色的新叶片不久后抽出。

2. 如果植株看起来很瘦弱或不结笼的情况，增加你的光照
如果猪很瘦弱的情况下你将意识到光照太弱了。颜色较淡也说明光照不充足。你的猪如果得不到充足的阳光也不会结笼，虽然有时湿度不够也会造成这种现象。

3. 剪下枯叶和枯笼子
在秋冬季叶子和笼子会挂掉。笼子只能维持几个月，大概一个季节的时间。之后变老就会转棕色然后死掉。从笼蔓剪下枯萎的笼子。
l 移除褐色与枯萎的叶片
l 避免一次修剪超过30%植株的叶片

原文：
一、
1. Determine the species of your plants.
Nepenthesare divided into two species groups – highland and lowland. The two species aredivided based on the altitude of their natural growth habitat, so they needslightly different care to thrive. There is also a less common intermediategroup that can grow in both highland and lowland conditions. The species mostlydictates the temperature and amount of light the plants need. Most of the othergrowth conditions are about the same for all species.
2. Provide species-appropriate temperatures.
The lowlanders prefer night temperatures that are above 70°F (20°C) andday temperatures between 85°F and 95°F (29°C and 35°C). They are sensitive tocold temperatures. The highlanders prefer a cooler environment. They like nighttemperatures between 45°F and 65°F (7°C and 18°C) and day temperatures between65°F and 85°F (18°C and 29°C). They can be sensitive to higher temperatures.[3]
Most species ofnepenthes are able to grow in daytime temperatures ranging somewhere between65°F and 80°F (18° and 27°C).
Ingeneral, most nepenthes can thrive at temperatures between 55°F and 95°F (12°Cand 35°C).
3. Expose the plants to direct sunlight at least fourhours each day. The amount of light required by nepenthes varieswildly from species to species. Research the species you have, find out itsnatural habitat, and try to recreate that as closely as you can. As a generalrule, they need at least four hours of direct sunlight each day, along withvery bright (but not direct) sunlight for the rest of the day.[5]
·No matter what species you have, avoid putting nepenthesin full shade. They won’t thrive.
If you can’treplicate the light requirements needed by your plant, look into using broadspectrum lights.
4. Provide ahumidity level of 60% or higher. Nepenthes come from tropical climates, sohumidity is essential for them. In general, they like humidity levels of 60% ormore.[6] They will tolerate lower humidity levels, but it can causethem to stop making pitchers. Lowlanders prefer a steady humidity level.Highlanders, on the other hand, will tolerate low humidity levels during theday, as long as they get higher during the night. If you live in a warm, humidclimate, you can try putting your plants outside. Always bring them in when thetemperature drops under 50°F (10°C).
· Manypeople use indoor humidifiers to create the right environment for their plants.If you do, make sure the area is well-ventilated.
Greenhouses and terrariums are other humid spotsmany nepenthes species enjoy.
5. Grow themin porous, low-fertility potting materials. Because of the way they evolved, nepenthes prefernutrient-free soil. This means the potting material should have little to notrace minerals in it. They need to grow in a medium that provides plenty ofaeration and drainage. Most nepenthes enthusiasts like to create their ownplanting mix using several different kinds of potting materials. The mostcommon ones used are coconut husk, dried sphagnum moss, perlite (or pumice),peat moss, and silica sand.
· Feelfree to create your own mix using these options.[8]
Other growth media to consider for mixes –charcoal, lava rock, orchid bark, cedar chips and limestone.[9]
二、
1. Water everyfew days with purified water. The precise amount of water will depend onfactors like type of potting material used, humidity level and so on, but as arule you should make sure your plant remains in moist media at all times. Neverallow the potting material to dry out completely – if the topsoil is startingto dry out, it’s time to water your plant. Just like their soil, nepenthes needwater that has little to no trace elements in it.
· Theywill tolerate a low level of minerals, but rain, distilled or purified waterare the best options. They dislike salt.[10]
· Tapwater is acceptable, but only if it’s under 250 ppm.
In general, lowlanders tend to need more waterthan highlanders.
2. Check foradequate drainage.[11] A nepenthe should never be left in standing water, since thiswill rot their roots. The key to avoiding this is adequate drainage. Selectpotting material that is porous, well-drained and open enough that air canreach the roots of the plant. Tree fern fiber, chopped fir bark, long fibersphagnum moss, peat moss and perlite are all good choices. A mix of several ofthese is typically used for best results.
· Afterwatering, always make sure there’s plenty of drainage.
If the potting material starts to break down(which can happen over time), or if you notice that your plant is drying outvery quickly, the issue may be too much drainage. The solution is repotting.
3. Avoidfeeding your plant unless it has limited access to insects. Carnivorous plants like nepenthes eat insects for food.Generally, you’ll never need to feed insects to your plant. Most homes haveinsects in them, and the plants have adapted over time to survive on very smallamounts of nutrients. An adult nepenthes only needs two or three insects everymonth to thrive.[12]
· Ifyou choose to feed your plant, it should only eat freshly killed insects. Makesure the insects will fit comfortably into the plant’s pitcher.
· Neverfeed your nepenthes actual meat.[13]
4. Repot your nepenthes in fresh media every year. After about a year, most potting materials start tobreak down. Nepenthes like to be repotted annually with new potting materialand, if necessary, a bigger planter. Changing the potting material helps toimprove soil aeration. You can safely repot your plants at any time of the year.[14] Be sure to water your plant right after you repot it.
三、
1. Reduce light exposure if you see yellow leaves. Yellow leaves, and sometimes red spots, indicate thatthe plant is getting too much sunlight. If you see any red or yellow on yournepenthes, check for burned leaves on the areas of the plant that face the sun.After you reduce light exposure, you’ll usually find new and normal-coloredleaves beginning to grow soon after.[15]
2. Increase light exposure if your plant looks thin and won’tgrow pitchers.[16] You will know light exposure is too weak when nepenthesappear scrawny or frail. Poor coloration can also mean the light exposure isn’tadequate. You plant may refuse to make pitchers if it’s not getting enoughlight, although occasionally this can be caused by inadequate humidity levels.[17]
3. Cut off dying leaves and pitchers. It’s normal for leaves and pitchers to start dying around fall orwinter. The pitchers only last a couple of months, about the length of oneseason. Then they age, turn brown and die. Prune dying pitchers off your plantby cutting them off at the end of their tendrils.[18]
· Remove browned and dead leaves.
· Avoid pruning off more than 30% of your plant’s foliageat one time.[19]

谢谢各位大佬支持给精以后有好文继续搬运